Der zu Ostern 2021 neu aufgelegte „Machdeburjer Mostrich“ ist eine Erfolgsgeschichte. Kaum war er nach über 30 Jahren in die Einkaufsregale der Region zurückgekehrt, meldeten einige Supermärkte schon kurzzeitige Lieferengpässe. Offenbar ändert sich guter Geschmack nicht, ist doch der grobkörnige Mostrich nach der Expertise der Sudenburger „Mostrich-, Weinessig- und Essigsprit-Fabrik Voigt & Co GmbH“ (1882-1972 wieder gefragt wie früher.
Und nun kommt bereits die zweite Sorte „Machdeburjer Mostrich“ dazu. Diesmal in der Tradition der 1980er Jahre, als die 1972 verstaatlicht Firma im Langen Weg als „VEB Senffabrik Magdeburg“ firmierte. Donald Hartmann war zwischen 1979 und 1981 als junger Mann dabei. Er erinnert sich: „Der Betriebsleiter, ein großer hagerer Mann, der stets einen grauen Kittel trug, hatte Verwandte oder Freunde in Ungarn. Über diese Kontakte konnte er Chili in die DDR holen. Zu DDR-Zeiten war das Gewürz Bück- und Mangelware.“
War in Sudenburg die Lagerbestände groß genug, dann mischten Donald Hartmann und Kollegen dem Tafelsenf Chili bei. Damit unterschied sich die Charge deutlich vom DDR-Einheitsrezept: „In der Szene wusste jeder, dass der scharfe Mostrich immer aus Magdeburg kam. Für uns Mitarbeiter öffneten sich mit ein paar Gläschen Chilisenf so manche Tür - in der Baustoffversorgung oder im Auto-Ersatzteilhandel war das nicht zu verachten. Die Leute sagten dann immer: ,Mann, der Machdeburjer ist wieder scharf wie hulle!’“
„Scharf wie Hulle“ genau damit greift der „Machdeburjer Mostrich“ die schärfste Tradition der Stadt als regionales Produkt wieder auf. Donald Hartmann weiß zu berichten, dass an 17 Standorten in der DDR „Tafelsenf“ produziert wurde. Zu ihnen gehörten neben Magdeburg u.a. Bautzen, Jüterbog, Altenburg, Erfurt, Gotha oder Tutow.
Der jährliche Pro-Kopf-Verbrauch an Senf lag zu DDR-Zeiten bei 1,4 Kilogramm (im Westen 940 Gramm). Bis heute kommt - im Gegensatz zum westdeutschen Produkt – ostdeutscher und damit auch der „Machdeburjer Mostrich“ eher blass daher. Das entspricht der natürlichen Farbe der Senfsaaten. Beim westdeutschen Pendant wird aus optischen Gründen häufig Kurkuma hinzufügt. Dadurch strahlt der Senf gelb.
Bis heute wird in den neuen Bundeländern mehr Senf/Mostrich gegessen als im Westen: Nach Analysen von 2006 lag der Pro-Kopf-Verbrauch in ostdeutschen Haushalten immer noch bei 1,29 Kilogramm (im Westen hat sich an den 940 Gramm nichts geändert). Donald Hartmann weiß warum: „Im Osten greift man viel häufiger beim Kochen zum Senf. Viele alte Rezepte aus DDR-Kochbüchern fordern Senf als Würze zu Wurst- und Fleischgerichten. Und ich kenne auch viele, die essen den Machdeburjer Mostrich sogar als Brotaufstrich.“
*
Beide Sorten des „Machdeburjer Mostrich“ sind u.a. erhältlich in Edeka- und Rewe-Supermärkte in Magdeburg, Schönebeck, Halberstadt und Wolmirstedt, in allen Filialen der Delikata-Fleisch und Wurstwaren GmbH, in Völckes Hofladen Lemsdorf, bei „Ottos Spezialitäten“ im Hundertwasserhaus, bei „MD-Souvenir“ am Domplatz, in der „Tourist-Info Magdeburg“, im Tee- und Gewürzhaus auf dem Alten Markt, in der „Vorratskammer“ in der Immermannstraße, sowie in den Frischeautomaten der „Sudenburger Fleisch-und Wurstwaren GmbH“ in der Hopfenbreite und in Osterweddingen (In den Ungleichen).
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